Page 16 - Dispatches - June 2022

Right: As with every Because of this complicated history, many
region of Italy, local villages and towns have both an Italian and
cuisine is driven by Austrian name—and sometimes a Ladin one
which vegetables are too. Unrelated to German or Italian, this third
fresh and in-season, language is the oldest of Italy’s Alpine region.
and local markets Today about 30,000 people keep the Ladin
have the full rainbow language and culture alive in five distinct
on display. valleys of the Dolomites. About 4% of the
population identifies as Ladin while 62%
of the population identifies as German or
Austrian and 23% as Italian.
traitors and outcasts. Many families are still North meets south
fractured along the lines of who decided to in the kitchen
stay and who chose to leave.
This amalgamation of cultures is particularly
In 1946, Austria and Italy came to an evident on the plate. The cuisine is a fusion
Traditional South agreement: Italy could keep its claim on the between Italian, Alpine, and Central European
Tyrolean dumplings region as long as it took steps to address the specialties. It takes inspiration from the
are made with white cultural damage caused by the Fascists’ harsh hearty, country cooking of the north and the
bread and locally Italianization attempts. Over the next 25 years, fresh fare of the Mediterranean to the south.
produced cheese. the relationship began to improve, and in 1972, Pasta exists alongside sauerkraut, stews, and
South Tyrol was granted autonomy. schnitzels—yet this juxtaposition works. In
Alps, Dolomites, Yet, not all is resolved and there continues to fact, South Tyroleans officially trademarked
Lombardy and be ongoing tensions between the two cultural their food to ensure a certified quality in 1976,
Venice identities. Some impassioned German- making it the first of Europe to achieve such a

speaking residents strive for secession. The designation.
separatist party, Sud-Tiroler Freiheit, (South Humble restaurants and taverns in cobbled
Tyrolean Freedom) would like to see the squares are the perfect spot to slow down
territory become its own republic. and enjoy the region’s cuisine. On the menu

Created by Steven
dos Remedios, 18-
time traveler from
Oakland, CA

Watch Video

Right: More than
half of the wines
produced in Alto
Adige are white
varietals, including
several you’d also
find in Germany:
Gewurztraminer,
Riesling, and Gruner
Veltliner.

16 DISPATCHES • WINTER 2022

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